Bonus Walk - Up and Over The Manhattan Bridge (Fifth Leg)

OMG!   It's been over five months since Nature Girl, The Old Guy and I took a walk over the Brooklyn Bridge into that storied borough, returning over the Manhattan Bridge...but, I left you all stranded on the "nether side" of the bridges.  Well...at least you all had full stomachs as we were just continuing our journey after lunch at Bubby's!  I've lived through a hideous winter in the 'burbs and am now in "renovation hell" so, with "raindrops falling on my head" outside, I thought I should continue our stroll through the "borough of Kings" and back to little old Manhattan.

As I said previously, we're walking through what is largely unchartered Brooklyn landscape for me...the DUMBO section of the city which is, approximatley, between the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges.  From Bubby's, we walked the few blocks east towards the Manhattan Bridge, but quickly realized that we'd have to navigate away from the waterfront to find the pedestrian entrance to walk over the bridge.  This route took us next to the stone and cement pilings that support the roadway going over the bridge,

an area that revealed peaks of "old Brooklyn" pre-gentrification.  Actually, it seemed like we'd suddenly traveled back to Brookly in the largely "unlovely" 1960s and '70s, in the era of utilitarian "prefab" apartment buildings and low-rise warehousing.

We scooted through this area fairly quickly, finding ourselves at the graceful curving stone staircase that brings one to the start of the pedestrian walkway of the Manhattan Bridge.  We dodged a bit of traffic to get through the rather large street intersection and ascended the stairs to start our walk over a bridge that literally and figuratively stands in the shadows of it's famous neighbor.  

Before we bid a fond farewell to the borough of my birth, I have to digress to tell you of the coincidence of the mood music I'm listening to as I type this.  While I like to think that I'm an illustrious product of Brooklyn, certain the lady I'm listening to right this minute is a bit better-known-- Barbra Streisand, at her very best, singing "People" in the original cast album from "Funny Girl."  Why I'm listening to show tunes (a great love of my youth that, frankly, I'd largely eschewed over the past ten years or so in favor of the classic rock of my late teens and early adult-hood) is the tale of last week seeing a revival of my absolutely favorite Broadway musical of all time -- Burt Bachrach, Hal David and Neil Simon's "Promises, Promises."  The revival is very good...and certainly worth seeing (though noone can beat the late Jerry Orbach, who originated the role of Chuck "CC" Baxter back in 1969 -- and yes, if you go to my friend Len's blog "Len Speaks" and read is review of the show, I am the unnamed "pain in the butt" who kept too-loudly comparing the current show with my golden memories of being a "stage struck" 14 year-old in the first row of the mezzanine on the edge of her seat thrilling to Jerry's exuberance and joy when he sang the title song near the end of the show.)  Anway, hearing that terrific score and succumbing to a tidal wave of nostalgia for my long-gone youth and "dreams of stardom" (based, admittedly, on little real theatrical talent), I went on an "I-Tunes purchasing binge," adding to my already considerable collection of treasured rock, folk-rock, soul, blues, Motown and funk music, with a smattering of classical.  By around 2 am Saturday morning, I had bought over 60 songs from original cast albums and soundracks (including the entire original cast album of "Promises, Promises" -- and I almost wept when I heard Jerry's soaring, joyous voice).  I've now got a Nano packed with everything from Ben Vereen, jazzing through "Magic To Do" from Pippin (and does that show bring back some great memories of my college theater dabbling), to Audrey Hepburn plucking the guitar and sweetly warbling through "Moon River."  Every song reminds me just how much I loved all those moments that came at me via theater or movies...and how much I enjoyed sharing that love and appreciation over the four years I hosted "Show Stoppers" on Fordham University's WFUV-FM when it truly was a "student-run" radio station (which is definitely not the case now).  Okay, now that Janice Joplin is wailing "Piece of My Heart," you can imagine that the "spell of the theater" is broken.  Then again, as theatrical as she was in her belting, maybe it's not such a stretch from Barbra to Janice.  It would be a neat segway back into "the walk" if Janice was born in Brooklyn but, that's not the case.  Barbra or Janice, Ben or Jerry...I find myself saying this more and more..."they just don't make 'em like that, anymore."

Geez, you poor people!  First, I leave you stranded in Brooklyn for five months...now you have to read through my trip in the "way-back machine" (thank you, Mr. Peabody -- I'll save my love of cartoons for another time). 

I have never walked over the Manhattan Bridge...and really only realized that you could about two summers ago when I was killing time waiting for the OG (Old Guy) to leave work one day (he's been working for quite some time in one of the Fiancial District buildings that overlooks the harbor, Brooklyn, the Brooklyn Bridge and Statue of Liberty).  I wandered down to the riverside to check out an art installation called "The Falls" where man-made waterfalls were placed in various locations between the bridges and out into the Harbor at this south end.  One of those falls was right under the Brooklyn Bridge, on the Brooklyn side, and another was next to the Manhattan piling for the Manhattan Bridge.  It was as I was gazing at that falls that I noticed two very "art nouveau" style "look outs" up on the bridge.  "Ah-ha," I said to myself (yes, I actually do think pithy phases like "ah-ha"), "that must be some kind of walkway.   I'll have to walk it, someday."

So, someday has finally come!

I'd liken the difference between the two bridge walkways this way -- you feel like you're walking on a "well-cared for" boulevard when you're walking over the Brooklyn Bridge.   The feeling is more of a somewhat seedy lane that has been squeezed between the aforementioned '60s warehouses, high-rises and the D and F trains speeding over the water closer than I'd have expected.

Once we cleared the Brooklyn shoreline, the walkway opens up a little more to reveal some terrific views of DUMBO, the Brooklyn Bridge and lower Manhattan. 

I was surprised by the high, highly unattractive chain link fencing along the walkway, making it difficult to really enjoy the views, especially as compared to the walkway over her majesty, the Brookly Bridge (it's interesting that I think of the Brooklyn Bridge in "Royal" tones while the Manhattan Bridge seems to wallow in a "scruffy grandure").  I guess they are trying to discourage planned or unplanned leaps, which would seem to be easier from this bridge as the walkway is right next to the water.  Still, I'll bet statics will show that many more people jump from the Brooklyn Bridge than this one (I guess, if you're going to jump, you want to go from the more famous of the two...it will play better in the obit). 

   I'll leave you with that thought to ponder and finish up what has turned out to be a very, very long walk in the next installment.

Bonus Walk - A Nosh Between Two Bridges...(Fourth Leg)

As I said previously, DUMBO really is a part of Brooklyn I had never visited (which is what "the walk" was all about...discovering new places I'd either not seen at all or whizzed by in the car).  We continued our stroll in Empire Fulton Ferry Landing Park, past some dynamite waterfront scenery (and thank you, Michelle "Brooklyn" Smith, for letting me know that we were now, indeed, following the East River), but prospects were looking dim that we'd find nourishment there.

Our collective stomach won out, so we left the actual riverside to get closer to the buildings that were visible on the other side of the street from the park.   We also were getting much closer to the Manhattan Bridge.  I found my camera wandering more and more over to the east to photograph it...

So, here we are, wandering down the few streets of DUMBO, lined with renovated office and warehouse buildings that are mostly residental and art galleries.  Oh...here is St. Ann's Warehouse, a music venue and performance space, where many "new music" groups (whose names and music I do not know) are now playing.  It's a sad commentary on my advancing age that I haven't been there to hear any music (back in the day, I used to get to whatever music venues were "hot" and happening).  Of course, back in my day, all the venues were in Manhattan.  Now music is being played all over the place...Washington Heights, Queens and all over Brooklyn.  God, I'm sounding like an old fogey!

But, still a hungry old fogey!   NG, in her typical Sacagewa fashion, spies large corner windows that hold the promise of a restaurant inside.  Yes!   It's a branch of Bubby's, the eponymous breakfast and brunch restaurant in Tribeca.  And, it's in what looks like a restored warehouse building, with tin ceilings and atmosphere to spare...and a great table in front of the big picture windows, with a view of the aforementioned park and a large part of the Manhattan Bridge!  

We quickly settled in and had quite a lovely repaste.  But, all too soon, it was time to take up the quest and find the right path over the Manhattan Bridge.

Bonus Walk -- First Exit To Brooklyn (Third Leg)

Note to Readers:   I apologize profusely for taking two months to continue this walk to Brooklyn and back (over the Brooklyn Bridge and returning over the Manhattan Bridge).  Here, in the deep-freeze of the last day of January, I look back at the photos of a sunny, still very warm day in late November and recall how good it felt to be walking along the Brooklyn waterfront.

So, I left you all stranded on a street underneath the Brooklyn Bridge.  Nature Girl, the Old Guy and I walked out from under the Brooklyn Bridge underpass and into the sunlit expanse of the Cadman Plaza Park. 

From there, it was a short, pleasant stroll down to the Fulton Ferry Landing, which is right along the Hudson just below the beautiful brownstones and still-wooden row houses of Brooklyn Heights, looking somewhat as it might have in the 19th Century. 

Food is never far from my thoughts (conscious or unconscious), so it's no wonder that this part of Brooklyn quickly registers with the "happy place" in my brain.  Not only does this street have one of the top pizzerias in Brooklyn (Grimaldi's), but one of the best ice cream stores in five boroughs (Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory), and one of the loveliest restaurants in the US (The River Cafe).  I can't say I'm unfamiliar with the two or so city blocks that make up the place where Robert J. Fulton launched the first steam ferry boat in the US (or anywhere else, I think) in the 1840s. 

I've driven down here many, many times, usually with a car-load of Brazilian relatives, foreign winemakers or local friends that are part of one of the many tours I've given on Manhattan and Brooklyn.   It's usually not difficult to stop here so that my guests can take in the terrific view of lower Manhattan from the Ferry landing itself (which also is the home to the BargeMusic, from whence comes great music on summer weekends)But, I have to say that it takes on a slightly different cast when you're walking down to the landing, with some very interesting storefronts along the way:

Ahh...The River Cafe holds some fond memories for the OG and me.   Back in 1985, the OG was sworn into the New York State Bar Association during a brief ceremony one Thursday afternoon at the Appellate Division Court Building in the Heights.  Afterwards, I treated him to lunch at The River Cafe...one of a few visits I've made to this unique Buzzy O'Keefe restaurant over the years, nestled directly under the Brooklyn Bridge's Brooklyn tower.

It's much prettier from the inside, looking out and across the Hudson...one of the great urban views in the US.   And, the food has always been consistently good...one of the few "destination" restaurants that has cuisine equal to its surroundings.  We walked past the restaurant and along Front Street (directly under the Brooklyn Bridge)...

...moving into an area that has gone from bleak waterfront to useful parkland in only the past few years.  This was "virgin territory" to me, this strip of land between the two bridges that has become the DUMBO section of Brooklyn. 

Weeds and waste no more than ten years ago...it now is an interesting merger of the very old (Civil War era factory buildings) and the very new, populated mostly by nesting "Gen-Xers," with a smattering of artists and musicians that haven't already been "priced out" of the area they helped to gentrify.   A wide open park space sprawls pretty much from the east side of the Brooklyn Bridge to the west side of the Manhattan Bridge.  We walked out to it through the well-preserved ruins of an old warehouse...

...and then east along what has, I think, ceased to be the Hudson River and is the southern end of the East River.  Of course, there's no actual demarcation line going across the water, like the "First Down" television graphics during an NFL game.  It's just a feeling of subtle change that I detect at this juncture in the water...or maybe it's just a wild "flight of fancy."

It could also be hallucinations due to hunger pangs, as it's fast approaching noon and we've yet to have any sustenance.  We all voted for Sunday brunch/lunch in DUMBO...but where?